Messages from the yet to be saved (and others)

I wanted to transcribe some of the messages people wrote on the coffin, so that they’re preserved if the coffin does get destroyed and so they can be shared with people who didn’t see them. I wont put down all the signatures as I think everyone who signed the coffin signed the petition as well which will become part of the public record. Please forgive me if I transcribe the message or or names incorrectly, as it filled up the coffin became more awkward to sign and it’s not easy to read all the handwriting.

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“Go well” - Chris

“Good luck!” - Phoebe

“God bless good luck” - Amanda

“Beautiful”

“Hi Rachael, hoping for your recovery! Lots of prayers, Andre XXX Ashburton NZ” - Andre van Rooyen

“Good luck love Karen from Malvern UK X” - Karen

“Pharmac: Genocide by drug buying policy - shame on you!” - Katy N

“Thank you for fighting! Save my Mum!”

“Suze & Duncan & Phoebe & Caitlin May the wind + sun be on your back + smiles on your face!”

“It’s not only hurting people with cancer, it’s hurting their familys” - Isla Matthew

“We can’t stop fighting the fight for those we love who depend on us” - Rowan Matthew

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“Please let me live longer please don’t bankrupt my family” - F. Matthew

“Biza from Brazil we are one love above all”

“Keep your drive” - Ange and Josh

“Be happy” X 2

“Safe travels from your Irish friends”

“Share the money!”

“Ride safe I need you home” - Nicola Cox

“Veel Geluk met Jullie, Missie + Eveline”

“Trish and Glenn Johnston with Aroha XXX”

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“Calcutt whanau supports free meds for all”

“May the sun shine” - Jeff?

“Keep up the great mahi guys” - Emma

“Many blessing on your venture” - Polly

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“Love what you’re doing - keep breathing!!!”

“Keep pur people alive give them what they need HELP”

“Arohanui” - Kathleen Gallagher

“Veel Geluk - Alt held og lykke” - Robert Peel

“I don’t want to have to move to Australia to live”.

“Die Scomo!!!” - I feel this one deserves a little explanation… We met a couple of Australians at Athol (south of Kingston) and after explaining how their tax was buying medicine for sick kiwis we started discussing the fires in Australia. The woman (who’s name I have forgotten - sorry), became a bit upset as they had heard that one of their friend’s house had just burnt down. When we invited her to write a message on the coffin she did ask is she could write anything? We said pretty much and that’s what she wrote. It was so nice to see her skip away giggling with a bounce in her step that wasn’t there before. Unfortunately, later that evening we did meet some Scott Morrison supporters in the Kingston Top 10 - yes there are some still around. Needless to say they didn’t sign the coffin.

“Kia Kaha” - E. Dobson

“Love the bike. A very good cause. All the best” - Allee

“Happy travels” - Anna + Jan UK

“Best wishes all our love” - Carol and Daryl Marshall

“Enjoy your ride”

“Thank you wonderful people for sharing an important message” - Harris family

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“Fund nibs - save my wife”

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“Wishes aren’t enough!”

“We need more!” - Sue

“G. Calcutt Chch NZ for Hana”

“Tracey Hodson Worcester UK Good luck guys”

“Not another give-a-little page”

“For Talia XX”

“Help us please”

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“Good luck” - Emilio

“Enough politics - put the people first!” M. Fairfax

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“Safe travelling great job right behind you” Bjorg

“Will my child die while Pharmac twiddles it’s thumbs?”

“Good job folks” - pen died.

“What value a life?” - Sue

“Good work folks!” - Sarah

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“Keep spinning”

Thanks to everyone who took time to sign and share a message, it meant a lot to us and made us more determined to get to Wellington.

Continued gratitude

We came across this fantastic work of art in the Woodhall gardens yesterday (out for a first ride on our standard bikes - so wobbly overcompensating for a lack of weight and length) by artist Tony Gillies (and plus one). All done with plants and totally impermanent. We’re grateful to Tony for the smile it put on our faces that this seemed an appropriate picture to start this post.

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We’d just been served coffee by Neil at Sailors cutting when I left off the last Gratitude post, so we’ll continue working our way up the country from there…

It’s always been a bit of an effort to work out how to charge all our devices each night (particularly the sign(s) on the coffin trailer). We brought along an extension cord especially so as long as we have a plug we can run that to the coffin and put everything inside charging on the plugbox where it can be locked away and is safe from the rain. Unfortunately we have a standard plug on the extension cord, not a caravan one which would plug into the camping outlets, so it can take a while to find an out of the way spot to move the coffin to that is close to a standard outlet. Steve, manager at the Duntroon domain, let us plug in to the side of his caravan (and signed the petition) - thanks Steve.

We had another great Top 10 experience at the Timaru Top 10 campground. We really like the little touches such as the planters of fresh herbs outside the kitchens. Despite it being in the middle of town I was surprised at how quiet it was when I woke up at one stage in the night. We’re very grateful to Gordon who didn’t charge us anything for our camping (and showers!) for the night.

It was so nice to meet Paula, the next morning who led us out of Timaru on the back streets. She blitzed us on the uphills but we definitely had the edge with all our weight on the downhills. We managed to get all the way to Temuka with only a short section on SH1 - so nice. Thanks Paula and thanks to the Temuka Pottery shop too, who served us delicious coffee and a delicious muffin (it said so on the sign and it was correct!) for free.

One of our goals for the trip was to get as much media attention as possible (and we were very successful - I’ll post links to all the coverage we know about some other time) but Mick Jensen of the Ashburton Courier really went the extra mile by giving us a place to stay and feeding us dinner. It was so nice to meet, and have the support, of Mick, Eveline and Laura. Mick was even incredibly gracious when he heard we were meeting with their competition the Ashburton Guardian as well. He understood it was all in the aid of a great cause.

Many people have shared heart breaking stories with us but Andre van Rooyen is a bit special. He’s managing to maintain an amazing outlook despite having to find $10,000 (yes you read that correctly I have not added an extra zero) a month to fund his treatment. Andre must be pretty special because it seems like the whole Ashburton community is rallying behind him to help fundraise - actually that must mean the Ashburton community is really special and certainly our experience would support that conclusion 100%. Thank you for sharing your story and your sobering but hilarious story of being in the Southland stadium when the roof collapsed due to snow. Hang in there buddy - we’re still fighting for you.

Greg McCallister (and Gerard), what can we say, you dedicated the best part of two whole days to seeing us safely in and out of Christchurch and you secured the awesome interview we had with Compass FM. You even brought us coffee. We’ll be right behind you when you do the Tour Aotearoa for the Heart Kids. Ha - now we’ve committed you ;-) Instead of saying thanks I will wish that all your winds are tailwinds and all your flats are level ones!

Thanks Martin and Paula for the roof over our heads in Christchurch. It’s always so nice to stay with you, bro, and catch up and it never seems to be a bother despite all you have going on in your lives and in your house. We’re looking forward to the next time (just not the drive up from Dunedin).

We almost cycled past our send off in Christchurch but we’re so glad we didn’t. Thank you Malcolm’s extended family and the Matthews family for being there for us. So nice to meet you and we’re so sorry you had to put up with the petty officiousness of the security guards at the bus interchange.

I’d like to thank Tom Kitchin from the Christchurch press for following up that incident with the city council and letting us know that ‘the security guard "erred" in this instance. The council says people are entitled to peacefully protest in public areas as it "it is an important part of democracy". They've advised the security contractor that written permission is not required for peaceful protests.’ Please can the next group that needs to protest something in Christchurch do it at the bus interchange for our sake so we can check that the message has made it through?

Julie at Red Rock Hats gave Millie “Pickles” the cat (a little broach) which, to protect from the sunscreen we’re always slathering on, she attached to one of the straps holding Hope into her bike seat. Seeing Pickles always brought a smile and the two looked really good together. Thanks, Julie.

We had our first in-studio radio interview with John at Compass FM in Rangiora. What an amazing experience. Your whole team is so caring and so, so professional - exactly what community radio should be. Sorry Radio New Zealand in terms of interview depth and professionalism Compass FM beat the socks off you. John asked great questions from some short research and directed them cleverly so Millie and I didn’t talk over each other. Then later, Steph, without us asking had the kind thought to send through a copy of the interview to us. We were so touched. And then I had a further follow up interview with John from Wellington last Thursday. We’ve been proud to carry your sticker on the front of the coffin from Rangiora to Wellington.

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Not only were we very relieved to find camping at Delhaven motels in Amberley, but Sue also let us stay for free. Thank you Sue - such a nice feeling camp with plenty of space.

We then met William and Geoff, apprentice Vintners for Black Estate and Pegasus Bay respectively, at Brew Moon in Amberley. They were so patient with our questions and sharing their knowledge about wine making. It’s a pity neither winery was open when we cycled past the next day (though both William and Geoff would have been working by then). I did look for a Black Estate wine on Friday to celebrate the news that Kalydeco will be funded but it’s not carried by out local supermarket unfortunately (I was on a bike, of course, so it was difficult to hunt further afield).

Rob and Lynn at Great Valley campground, having heard us on Compass FM, offered us a cabin for the night. Due to distances and where we stayed, we couldn’t take up the offer but it was very much appreciated anyway. We stopped by the camp and got to meet Rob who, with a couple of friends, signed the petition and coffin - thank you.

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Having the unique Solar Trike across the road from the unique coffin trailer must have been a world first. It was so great to meet David Brandenburger and he kindly sent through this and other photos later on and even happened meet my nephew Josh at the bike park in Christchurch. David, safe travels and good luck with the rest of your journey we did envy both your set up and your tailwind when you went past. It’s such a pity you didn’t find The Staging Post open as we did. Had we camped together I’m sure we would have had so much to talk about.

To Alan, the policeman who pulled us over and all the other boys and girls in blue working to keep us safe on the roads especially during the holidays we are indebted. I know the people you pull over and slow down don’t always appreciate it but we certainly do. Of course, we would have preferred to have been off-road entirely. Bring on a cycle way the length of the country!

The Store at Kekerengu (not a store) is an amazing place to stop. Such a great garden area for resting and spectacular views. Oh, and the free cheesecake you gave us really hit the spot.

The Top 10 and Blenheim may well be one of the best - well away from any State Highway and Mel was so friendly and sharing. Thanks so much, Mel, for the free site.

It was great to see some of the old lunchtime MTB crew at the Ferry terminal in Wellington. Good to see you again and I’m really sorry we didn’t have more time to catch up or go for a proper ride (through the streets to parliament doesn’t count for that hard-core group).

Big ups to Ant and Helen for putting us up and feeding us in Wellington. Even Ant shared his story of how he’ll have to self-fund some expensive medicine soon. I think it goes to show how it’s much more common than people realise.

Michael Woodhouse deserves praise for taking the coffin and showing that at least one of our one hundred and twenty employees is paying attention.

I can’t believe I am saying this but… thank you Pharmac - for funding Kalydeco. The announcement came out of the blue but meant so much to all of us in the CF community. Believe or not we really feel that we’re on the same side as Pharmac. I’m sure they would like to see their budget doubled too. They’re forced into make agonising decisions day after day (which I would hate to have to do) and it is government policy that is the problem, not Pharmac itself. The length of time it takes to make these decisions is a problem, but that wont be helped by having very limited funds to negotiate with.

I haven’t mentioned many of the press I’ve had direct dealings with but to all those media agencies who gave us coverage, that was one of the main goals of the exercise. Thank you. Together we have definitely raised awareness of the issue with Pharmac and the plight of many Kiwis and even educated people about CF. It did make it a lot easier to talk to people when they had seen us on TV, in the newspaper, or heard us on the radio.

To Malcolm and Fiona at Patient Voice, thank you for fighting the good, true and just fight. Even though we’ve only met you the once last Wednesday you already feel like old friends. We look forward to continuing the battle with you and also look forward to the day when we no longer have to fight because the powers that be have heard reason.

To our three girls, we’re so proud of you. Ella, it’s not many people who get the experience you have had at the Youth Winter Olympics but then it’s not many people that put in all that work to get there. Rachael and Nicola, we’re so pleased with how you looked after each other and coped while we were away. You really enabled the trip for us and all the 250,000+ kiwis were battling for. Your halos definitely deserve to be shining.

Last, and most, I have to thank Millie. It takes a special person when their partner suggests it would be a good idea to cycle a coffin 1200Kms to not turn round and say “Ya what, now?” To, in fact, turn around and say “let’s do this” takes an extra special person and you are my extra special person. It’s been such a treat to spend so much special time with you. In the last 20 days we’ve had more ‘dates’ than we’ve had since Rachael was born - literally. I know the trip was far more daunting for you than for me and you had to have complete faith in my driving abilities with no steering, gears or brakes of your own, but despite that terrible first day, together we did it! You have my deepest love and respect.

Undertaken

Just a quick update on the coffin. On Thursday I wrote how it was likely to be held in storage and then destroyed along with all the signatures and messages on it which I felt was truely sad but sadly reflective of the government’s attitude and Pharmac’s model.

So I was really pleased to hear that Michael Woodhouse formally received the coffin and he says “It now has pride of place in my parliament office.”

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Thank you Michael, Millie and I and all the people we met on the way who shared their time and stories really appreciate you respecting our collective commitment and suffering. We’re glad you’re not letting it be brushed under the carpet.

We look forward to meeting you next week.

Kia mihi.

So Thrilled

We have just received the amazing and totally unexpected news that Pharmac has agreed to fund Kalydeco! This is huge news for the CF community and I’m so, so pleased for all those with the G551D mutation (not Rachael). We believe this will pave the way both for drugs for other CF mutations and for other rare disorders (I may be wrong, but this may be the first time Pharmac have funded a drug across the board that will benefit such a small number of individuals - less than 30)

Pharmac will have been in negotiations with Vertex for a while so, I’m afraid, we can’t take any credit for this decision but short of doubling Pharmac’s budget if there was, for us, a single realistic outcome from our trip that would make it all so worth while, this decision would be it.

So, once again, I would like to thank all our supporters. Please know that today, unlike Wednesday, there is a smile on my face and a lightness in my heart that can’t be erased.

I’ve rightly been critical and hard hitting during this trip but credit where it is due… Thank you, Pharmac, Vertex and anyone else behind the scenes who pushed this decision through - yes even any MPs involved - genuinely. I suspect they would have loved to make this announcement this a few days earlier.

So, that’s another one off the wait-list only something like 98 to go. For all those who were part of our story who aren’t in the CF community, we will continue to work with PVA to see that one day you too can enjoy similar uplifting news yourselves. We just pray it is not too late.

Kia Kaha - together we are strong.

Finally

Our final morning dawned overcast and still with perfect cycling conditions which seemed a bit of a waste given that we had about 1 km to cycle to the ferry terminal.

First stop, once again, was for coffee and then we backtracked south for a block to find a bakery to get some food for the sailing.  There was a bit of a discussion amongst the tandem crew about whether we should just cycle back to Dunedin but the general consensus was that we really didn’t want to disappoint the people who would be waiting for us in Wellington.  Millie expressed this desire quite succinctly with something along the lines of “Hell No!”

So on to the ferry it was. 

When we placed the online booking there was an option for bicycle but not one for a tandem and not one for a coffin and, funnily enough, no category for tandem with coffin trailer.  So we were a bit concerned that we might get charged extra for our 5m long vehicle.  Fortunately when we pointed this out, not only did it not seem to be a problem but it resulted in a couple more signatures on the petition.  Thanks friendly interislander terminal staff!

It was no problem getting our vehicle onto the ferry and more friendly staff helped lash it down carefully.  We locked up and went up to the lounge decks leaving Hope behind (there didn’t seem to be any requirement for skeletons to leave the vehicle deck).  One of the staff did tell us that they transport a surprising number of coffins (with bodies) back and forth, so we certainly weren’t a first.

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As usual it was lovely sailing out through the sounds, what a beautiful part of New Zealand.  And even once out past Tory channel it as flat smooth sailing after all the settled weather we’ve had recently.

I got talking to one of the truck drivers who specialises in transporting the fuel tanks that get buried to hold the petrol at petrol stations.  These are often so big that need to be transported with 3 pilot vehicles or even in two sections.  He had some fantastic photos.  One, for example, going through the opposite side one way tunnel near Kaikoura with literally centimetres on either side.  He had to use the opposite side because the other side had too tight a turn at the entrance.

The weather in Wellington was somewhat less pleasant.  Overcast and windy (classic Wellington).  Our good friend Ant met us with his car and we offloaded all the luggage from the coffin in preparation for presenting it to parliament.  Then Sparrow, JD, Tom, Matt and other cycling buddies from the old lunchtime crew joined us for the short ride to parliament.  So good to see them all again and so touched that they made the effort to come and escort us.

We got there a bit early and hadn’t quite realised where we were meant to met Malcolm but we eventually found each other and quite a Welcoming committee (but it did entail having to recreate our entrance for the assembled press - so many cameras again).

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It was so nice to finally met Malcolm in person and Fiona Tolich, the real drivers behind the petition.  It was just like meeting old friends.  I didn’t get a chance to count but there was maybe 30 others there.  Unfortunately with all the press attention and activity I felt like I hardly got to speak to anyone, so please accept my apologies, I really would have loved to chat to all our supporters.

After talking to the press, I whipped out a few tools and separated the coffin from the trailer.  Then Malcolm’s amazing Auntie (such mana and presence in such a tiny form - I have no doubt she could command an entire Marae) led us up on to parliament grounds in an solemn procession.

It turns out that even though you and I, as taxpayers, own the parliament buildings it seems you’re not allowed even to touch them.  It didn’t take long for three security guards to swoop down and explain, in no uncertain terms, that we were not going to be allowed anywhere near parliament steps.

I struggle to understand what they were afraid of, given that an MP has driven a tractor up them previously. 

What were they worried would happen? Would our touching the steps trigger a sudden uprising of the Wellington populace?  Would we somehow be some threat to the MPs by walking up the steps?  That seems hard to believe given that out of 120 a sum total of zero seemed to be present.  Perhaps at the top there is the button that triggers the long overdue earthquake on Wellington’s faultline and they were worried we might inadvertently knock it. 

When I asked the security staff what they were afraid of, they didn’t explain just said that “it wasn’t allowed”. Perhaps they lose their jobs if they let someone through or maybe they have a quota of people they have to stop to get their annual bonuses? Either way they didn’t seem to have the ability to read the situation and think that perhaps we weren’t that much of a threat.

Still at the end of the day we want to make a point and not upset or antagonise anyone so we decided not to push the issue and place the coffin as directed and we put it between the flag poles you can see in the picture above. After all, placing the coffin 50 metres away doesn’t alter the fact that New Zealanders are dying unnecessarily on this government’s watch.

Apparently this wasn’t good enough and we were told it had to be at the bottom of the steps below. At this point we had had enough. I said we had compromised and called on them to compromise too and we refused to move further. This was finally accepted.

We made some speeches and talked to the press, some of which later made the TV1 News, RNZ and other outlets. One member of the press had sought comment from David Clarke and read an email response to me (so this is second hand) that was basically a pat response about how the Labour government has increased Pharmac’s funding (recently approving the Palbociclib) and that they would be putting in $20 million more this year and that the Labour government would not be reviewing or reforming Pharmac. My response was that this was piecemeal and a drop in the ocean compared with what is required. They seem to be trying to appease the electorate and fund drugs that have popular backing due to high demand, but have little regard, for example, for the 23 New Zealanders whose lives would be transformed by Kalydeco.

David Clark, if you are reading this, let me explain how this works…

Without medication our daughter’s condition (which you will have to treat in hospital) will continue to get worse. Eventually, if she is like most people with cystic fibrosis, she will end up in hospital every second month, taking up a bed, requiring operations and medication. After this goes on for a long time, if she is lucky, she will get on a lung transplant list and eventually have the lung transplant. I don’t know the actual cost of all this but a conservative estimate would be millions. Due to her condition she wont be able to work or pay tax or contribute to any measure of the GDP in any way. Meanwhile her mother has stayed at home to be there for hospital visits etc, another person not working, not paying tax, not building up a KiwiSaver nest egg, not productive in economic measures. So lets add another couple of million for that. Then there is the opportunity cost, beds get tied up in hospitals so that means someone else misses out or you need to build a bigger hospital. Due to cross infection issues other people with CF need different rooms must be kept away and infection control put in place if both are in hospital at the same time. The rooms need a terminal clean between visits. It really does go on and on and on. Start adding it up and the cost to the country of that one patient, in real terms, may well be in excess of five million dollars.

Or, now here’s and idea, you could fund the incredibly effective drug that saves all that money (and all that suffering and misery) and, even at the exorbitant prices that the pharmaceutical companies charge, the country would still be better off economically. It just does not make sense not to fund these drugs as you end up having to pay many times over elsewhere in the health system where because of the extent of the sickness people get really expensive to treat.

I’ve used a cyclic fibrosis example above but this same economic argument plays out across all the other conditions needing the medicines on Pharmac’s wait list.

I hope I’ve made that clear for you, David, but feel free to give me a call to discuss it any time if you have any questions.

Then, almost anti-climactically we were done and it was time for us and our entourage to leave.

Woah there - not so fast!

Our security friends informed us that we absolutely could not leave the coffin without it being received by a parliamentarian. Funny though, there were absolutely zero parliamentarians around to receive it. We were definitely going to leave it there. After all it was our gift to them and, surely, it would have been rude to refuse it. What’s more absolutely no one was going to make Millie and I move it even 1 metre more.

Given we didn’t see how they could stop us leaving, Millie and I walked off to get the bike and I’m pretty sure, Malcolm and the others drifted away after that. Since we went across the road to the backbencher to have a post mortem (pun intended) with Malcolm and Fiona we could see that finally there was one security guard left standing out in the cold wind beside it. At some point after that it disappeared. I believe into storage for a few days before, I suspect, it will be destroyed. All those messages written on it, no doubt, ignored.

It was so wonderful and interesting to finally talk to Malcolm and Fiona in person and hear about all their hard work to date. I was particularly shocked when Fiona told us how 25% of the ALS community has moved to Australia to access the medication that is available there and not here in New Zealand. Another shocking statistic all MPs should be absolutely ashamed of. It seems it’s government policy to send our sick people overseas so they don’t burden our health system (no doubt it makes the DHB’s dire finances look a little better) and if that’s not government policy well they clearly need to change it because the current policy is clearly not working.

We had sent Hope, the skeleton, on with Ant (who with Helen we’re kindly giving us a bed for the night - thank you so much - such a treat for us) and all that remained was to ride the tandem up to their place. Before we set off we decided to pick up a reward for the end of the ride in a form of a six pack of Panhead Rat Rod (my current fav) which we had to put in the toddler seat as we had no other way to carry it.

At one point Millie turned around and said “Look, we’ve replaced Hope with alcohol” which seemed a sadly appropriate comment on the outcome to date.

But the fight will continue…

I’ll be doing one more update to complete the gratitude post before we finally take a much needed break.

The stoker takes over

Guest post by Millie who is rebelling after the Weld pass downhill…

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The penultimate day of pedaling has brought us to the lovely campground at Spring Creek, North of Blenheim.

A minor miracle that we got here what with the 389 wineries (estimated) between Ward and our campsite. We were helped by the fact that we left Ward at the crack of dawn to avoid the wind and the traffic so none of said wineries were actually open as we sped past in the mists of the morn. OK, that last part is a lie. We didn’t speed.

The hills seemed bigger than expected, and we pushed up one pitch beside the ubiquitous vines.

Seddon was the first coffee stop: much anticipated after the hilly start to the day. Sadly Seddon lacks hipsters and the coffee wasn’t quite the hit we were hoping for, so we set off again to tackle Weld Pass to reach Blenheim.

Now, for those of you who have never sat clinging to the back of tandem while your mad partner speeds you down a windy road with oncoming trucks and brakes that don’t work very well and which scream with terror every time they’re applied… the descent was … well… character building.

We lived though and quickly saw the first welcome to Blenheim sign. Blenheim is a sunny spot, with a lot of wineries, but don’t be fooled, it doesn’t start at the welcome sign. Not that one, nor the next, or the one after that.

So, after 87 more kilometers (estimated) we finally found Blenheim. Blenheim, bless it, DOES have hipsters so our inner radar directed us forthwith to a fine cafe where we recovered from our hill mission.

Blenheim has some cool things going on. They have beanbags in odd places around the town where we saw people knitting, and reading in the sun. They have a river with nice tracks and seating. They also have a really cool craft shop called Fabric Creations run by really cool people, and a cycle lane all the way to Spring Creek! If we were slower on that last leg, it wouldn’t have anything to do with yards of gorgeous fabric and inspirational books finding their way into the coffin. Hem hem.

Our biking day over, we found books and a spot on the river bank to do some slothing, careful to keep our toes out of the water lest Eddie the eel, resident star attraction, take a liking to our toes! Short day to Picton tomorrow… assuming the wineries are still shut 😉

Untoward cycling

What a night. We couldn’t wait to get out of Kaikoura if I’m honest. Not only were we between state highway 1 and the railway line but Top 10 has us packed in like sardines (to be fair it’s the busiest campground we’ve stayed in by far). Someone in a nearby tent snored like a strangled possum, a car alarm went off at one stage, drunk noisy yobbos wandered up the pavement just outside the campground, and people seemed to need to chuck their bottles in the recycling bins about 10 metres away from us in the middle night. Surely that could have waited til morning. Then just as dawn was breaking several camper vans packed up and headed off even more keen to beat the traffic than us! Suffice to say we had a bit of an early start.

Fortunately things went uphill from there and not in the geographical sense. We found the old beach rd at the end of town and had 6 kms of pretty much perfect cycling. Mountains to the left, sea on the right and a sealed road with hardly any traffic. All good things must come to an end, however, as did the old beach road in a steep gravel climb at Hapuku back to the main road.

Millie keeps winning the boat, float, goat game, but this morning I saw a stoat chasing another stoat and I felt I had a strong case for adding a stoat category, unfortunately there was no consensus amongst the team and I lost several more games during the day as the elusive goats (plenty of boats around Kaikoura) proved not to be so elusive to the eagle-eyed Millie.

A little down the road there was a long section of road works where the road was down to a single lane controlled by traffic lights with something like a 6 minute gap (the lights had a countdown timer). The traffic was pretty light but this meant we got a nicely predictable clear road for a while and then a stream of traffic we could pull off for and then six more minutes of peaceful cycling.

With a tailwind (finally!) we made good time and came across Karaka Lobster at Okiwi before we got too desperate for coffee. Although, at one point we passed a house where the entire tandem team noticed a strong coffee smell and we briefly considered whether mugging for coffee would be a crime or understandable.

Fortunately we were just ahead of the queue for coffee as a couple of tour groups pulled in, including an escorted cycling tour who drove up - their schedule only had them cycling 11 km to a winery today - seems a little more sensible than towing a coffin the length of the South Island.

We ended up spending more than an hour there as person after person came to sign the petition and coffin, including the most charming and least intimidating detective we’ve ever met (and we suspect probably very effective as a result).

The tailwind continued to blow us along at a steady pace until we got pulled over by the police. Genuinely pulled over! With flashing lights and everything!! Oh oh what had we done?

Alan was keen to see us being as safe as possible and had a couple of suggestions. He didn’t like Millie holding her arms out to move traffic over and was keen to see me driving as far left as possible. So he agreed Millie should put a stick out instead of her arm and so she snapped off the stalk of a handy flax flower and stuck it out sideways from Hope’s seat.

Alan was friendly and supportive and did sign the petition and coffin but I did feel he was coming from an driver’s perspective putting a lot of the onus for our safety on us. With rumble strips, all the glass and gravel that gets chucked on the should and the fact that the shoulder is often very rough staying left is often not an option. Sometimes there is no shoulder at all so drivers need to be prepared for slow traffic in the way. Also the further left you go the closer they pass. Alan was concerned about minimising the risk of a head on with cars pulling out at inappropriate spots, but because we can’t control the road conditions, drivers need to also take responsibility for slowing down and waiting until it’s safe to pass.

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Anyway we parted on good terms which was just as well as we saw him again just around the corner at The Store. We also caught up with the same cycling group again (who had driven there) and felt that, perhaps, we had earned our lunch a little more than they had.

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The Store is a very nice cafe at Kekerengu with the most amazing views out over the ocean. They even gave me delicious raspberry cheesecake when our tour group friends pushed our cause for us.

After lunch I relaxed while Millie went to the toilet. Twenty minutes later I went to find her, waylaid at the coffin talking to another couple and she hadn’t even made it to the toilet yet - still she got at least two more signatures.

The wind continued to push us on toward Ward and once again we managed to pedal up the hills once we left the coast (probably helped by the wind).

There’s not a whole lot in Ward but at least there’s a cafe which supplied dinner and the A1 Ward Motel has camping and the best shower of the trip so far. So all sorted for the night.

Getting stronger and closer

Ella came 18th in women’s luge in the youth Olympics. So proud of her and very pleased she didn’t have an accident. She’s got one more doubles event to go with Hunter Burke. So all that preparation for less than four minutes of sliding in total. We’re so looking forward to having her back though.

The day dawned and absolute stunner with a totally cloudless sky but by 8:30am when we left the Staging Post, the headwind had already started to blow up and we knew we would be sweating bigly (to borrow a word from Donald) on the way up the hills.

Fortunately the traffic wasn’t too bad with no attempted murders today (there were two yesterday with far too wide vehicles passing far to close) and the 60Km speed limit over the Hundalees was welcome (we may have broken that on the way down but definitely not on the way up). We were also possibly helped by the traffic cop that passed us several times in either direction on the road and had someone pulled over when we passed at one point.

We managed to ride the three hills between Hawkswood and the coast without resorting to pushing and we definitely feel like we’re getting stronger, but maybe the road isn’t as steep as the Lindis which was definitely a good training ride!

The dramatic coast south of Kaikoura was stunning in the sun and made for pleasant cycling except for the headwind and the rather strong odour of seals (they seemed to be everywhere).

The last flat few kilometres into Kaikoura were a real struggle. We hadn’t had any coffee and nothing significant to eat since breakfast so I think we were running on empty but it just seemed to go on and on. We were very happy to reach the Cave cafe south of the hill over the Kaikoura peninsula and the decision to stop with 3km to go was easy and unanimous amongst the tandem crew.

It’s amazing what a bit of caffiene and berry waffles can do for the spirit (both delicious by the way) and the rest of the run into the campground didn’t seem so bad after that.

The top 10 in Kaikoura has good facilities but is nestled between state highway 1 and the railway line so we expect it will be pretty noisy in the tent tonight. We not so impressed with the cost - $56 for two people to camp. That doesn’t really make camping a cheap option any more if you have a family. Still the staff a friendly and were helpful with information about what services we might find between here and ward.

We met the lovely Alice from the Kaikoura star then took a gentle walk to explore the town. It was all hot in the sun however but the walk back beside the beach was pleasant in the breeze.

The local New World provided our staple dinner of fresh pasta and some more snacks (it really is amazing how much food you can consume when cycle touring) and I suspect we’re going to have another early night despite the short day kilometre-wise. It didn’t feel that short in reality.

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Not every cyclist this season is towing a coffin

We’re so proud of our three girls. Particularly right now with Rachael and Nicky holding the fort at home and looking after each other so nicely. And we couldn’t be more proud of Ella, currently representing New Zealand at the youth Olympics in Switzerland. Seeing these amazing videos makes us miss her even more and wonder when she got so, well, professional. So impressed I can’t resist posting them.

https://www.olympicchannel.com/en/video/detail/luge-s-secret-ingredients/

https://www.olympicchannel.com/en/video/detail/kiwi-luger-ella-cox-mess-it-up-and-it-s-gonna-hurt/

Ella races tonight. Go Ella!

OK back to our day. We were up at 6am to try to beat the forecast noreasterlies which are a direct headwind for us at the moment and we did manage to get away quite early and have pretty smooth sailing up to Greta Valley. The traffic on state highway 1 (which we were on the whole time) wasn’t even that bad - particularly after the Hanmer/Lewis pass turn off.

Coffee and morning tea at the Fossil Point cafe in Great Valley, very welcome by the time we got there and the best berry crumble slice ever (the carrot cake was great too - full of goodness - definitely health food).

We then wandered up to the Greta Valley campground to meet Rob who had kindly offered us a free cabin after hearing us on Compass FM. Unfortunately we couldn’t take him up on his offer but we did get him and a couple of mates to sign the petition and coffin.

From there on it was into the growing headwind but we amused ourselves by completing the ABC game in two categories: book titles (surprisingly difficult) and hardware and software. Still we were in Cheviot our planned destination for the day for a late lunch and some more signatures.

Rob had given us the lowdown on a campground, the Staging Post Retreat, at Hawkswood about 20Km up the road. Despite the headwind we decided to give it a crack conscious that it would reduce the distance over three big hills to Kaikoura tomorrow.

Then we met David from Switzerland who A) is way way more sensible than us and B) had the perfect consistency of handshake.

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Dave is touring the world on his solar powered recumbent e-bike. And, just to rub it in, he had a tailwind.

I think it must be a pretty rare sight - probably a New Zealand first tandem towing coffin meeting a New Zealand first solar powered recumbent on SH1 in the middle of nowhere.

Then Dave dropped the worst news. He had been past The Staging Post and the gate was closed with a sign saying no vacancy! With, as far as we were aware, nothing else between there and Kaikoura (another 50Km away).

Well we certainly weren’t going to head back to Cheviot after those hard gained kms in the headwind so we decided to press on and maybe beg for a patch of grass off a friendly farmer.

We got to the turn off to Hawkswood unsure whether to head up or not and Millie suggested calling the Staging Post. Relief when, not only was the phone answered but Linda told us she had just got back and was indeed receiving guests. We even had almost enough cash on us to pay as Linda doesn’t take eftpos (almost).

This must be the quirkiest campground we’ve stayed at. It looks like something out of the Wild West or the Australian outback complete with replica stage coaches.

Plenty of room for camping and a recently refurbished shower. Happy, clean cyclists again and so releived at not having to ride any further. Having done almost 90Km in the headwind and heat we’re knackered.

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We cycled the rakaia bridge - and survived!

Someone needs to print t-shirts with that on. Then again maybe there wouldn’t be a large market of people who do cycle all 1.75 km of the Rakaia bridge who do, in fact, go on to survive. But I’m getting ahead of myself…

We had great night in very comfy bed courtesy of Mick and Eveline and they made sure we were fed and coffees up before we were on our way.

First stop was an interview with the Ashburton Guardian who had brought along Andre van Rooyen who wanted to sign the petition. Andre has cancer and said he was “lucky” that he was in the one percent that has a particular gene that responds to a modern treatment. The Ashburton community has been helping fundraise the $10,000 per month that the drug costs because it isn’t funded by Pharmac, so he is passionate about our cause. Here he is writing a sweet message for our daughter, Rachael, on the coffin.

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Andre knew of a local bike store close by and since we already had had three more broken spokes since having the wheel trued in-store in Timaru we decided it would be wise to try and get a new back wheel. Fortunately John and Wheel Haus had just what we needed and swapped over our cluster and tyre there and then and he and all the staff signed the petition.

Finally we got properly on our way. Google which, to date, has been really good with it’s cycling directions keeping us off the main road on other tarsealed roads where possible, promised almost all day off state highway one so we were quite looking forward to it.

It wasn’t to be. Google repeatedly tried to send us down unsealed roads and lately the gravel has been pretty bad so we ended up on SH1 all the way to Rakaia. Pies and coffee at the great Rakaia bakehouse went down a treat (they make the best pie pastry) and on the way out of the shop a passer by suggested we might be able to walk our bike on the walkway across the rail bridge.

There was a crew at the start of the bridge who were working on the line who said there wasn’t another train for 40 minutes but their foreman was adamant that we couldn’t use the walk way. So after trying to find a gap in the traffic we made a dash for it on the road.

For those who haven’t been on the Rakaia bridge it is long - 1.75Km long it is a narrow two lane with a raised edge and no shoulder. Basically there is no where for a cyclist to go except in the middle of the lane and hope for no stupid drivers (given our experience to date not a very likely scenario).

We flew as fast as we could and after a couple of cars passed us a kind truck pulled in behind and had our back the rest of the way across the bridge. We pulled over as soon as we got to the other end puffing like a couple of steam trains.

Once again Google tried to send us down unsuitable gravel roads and in consultation with Greg McCallister (our guide into Christchurch we headed off SH1 for Leeston (another place we’ve never been to before). It was a bit of a detour into a headwind but it was so nice to be on a quiet road again.

We caught up with Greg and the intimidatingly fit looking Gerard at Leeston and not only did they break the wind for us all the way to Christchurch they bought us coffee in Lincoln.

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The rest of the ride was pretty uneventful, though to be honest we had expected Christchurch drivers to be a little more patient given the city’s reputation for cycling.

We were within cooee of my brothers house in Cashmere when we were stopped by more keen petition signers and we got some more signatures and drawings on the coffin too. We were pretty grateful that it was just a short walk from there after what must be close to another 100Km day.

My brother cooked up a great feed for dinner (it’s amazing how much food you pack away when riding all day) and we’re very grateful for that and to have a roof over our heads for another night.

After getting the new wheel this morning we weren’t able to use our bottom gear, so I had to take some time out this evening to make adjustments. It was only after adjusting the gears and brakes that I discovered I hadn’t put the wheel in properly (thank goodness it hadn’t come out on the Rakaia bridge!) and once it was in properly I had to readjust the gears and brakes back again - doh!